Friday, January 13, 2006

Eatin' Out - Una Pizza Napoletana

349 E. 12th Street
Wed-Sun 5pm until the dough is gone
Sort of an artisinal pizza maker, the heavily-tattooed owner makes each pizza by hand and bakes it in a wood-fired brick oven as you order it. He calls it Vera pizza Napolentana - true Napoletana pizza - and the crust truly is something to die for. There are only 4 kinds of pizza available, all simple and made with the finest ingredients: buffalo mozzarella, extra-virgin olive oil, garlic, sea salt, basil, and fresh tomatoes. No sides, but drinks are offered.

The pizza I had was a classic Margherita, and while I don't know if it was worth $18.95, it was really tasty. The grease from the cheese puddled on the middle of the pie, which caused the ingredients to slide off but again, it was all about the crust: not too thin and crispy but certainly not doughy either. Pillowy and fantastic.

No reservations accepted, and with two guys working the whole joint, it can be slow. An italian son and father combo acted like real jackasses the night I was there, complaining before they even sat down about the service. The harried waiter told them "Eat here, or don't eat here. It is your choice." He walked away leaving them seething. They fact that they stayed says something about the pizza.

Arrive early or expect to wait for a table.

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